Wenzhou sits toward the southern end of Zhejiang province, eastern China. Zhejiang is one of the wealthiest provinces due to its widespread, forward-thinking light industry. Handicrafts, textiles and electronics find their way across the world through nearby Ningbo port.
In all honesty, there’s not a huge amount of “bad: when it comes to Wenzhou, but in the name of balance, honesty and integrity, we need to examine all aspects of the city for a fair, justified representation. So, here are some of the pros and cons of Wenzhou: the good and bad aspects and elements of the city.
Pro: Size
If like me you hail from a small country like the UK, you might find the size of Wenzhou rather comforting. By Chinese standards it’s a small city, yet is home to a similar population size as London. So in this author’s opinion, it’s huge. However, you can get anywhere on a bus in around an hour, you can cycle into the centre fro0m the outskirts in an hour to an hour and a half.
Con: The Weather
Having lived in Bangkok and visited Singapore, I understand what humidity feels like. Wenzhou is roasting! I find it unbearable most of the time. Move closer toward the foot of the mountains and I believe it feels more humid. From June to October, there’s little relief, other than staying huddled around one’s aircon units. Venturing outside spells wet clothing, sunburn and general suffering. Tip: Venture west into Wencheng and you can find mountain retreats at circa 1000 metres elevation. The temperature sits around the lower 30s and hotels don’t even have air conditioning, it’s that comfortable. More on this to come!
Pro: The Food
Wenzhounese food is a delight. It’s healthy because seafood is plentiful, and it’s light and easy. Expensive in the UK, but oysters are cheap here and served steamed or barbecued. Either way, they’re healthy and delicious. Fish head is also popular here too, served in a light, yet often hot soup. Although a waste product in the UK, the head holds a lot of soft, fatty meat, and the head is often accompanied by strips of the body. Watch out for bones, though! Crab season is a real treat. The extra cost is well worth it, though!
Con: The Local Dialect
I can’t say I wasn’t warned. People would tell me before I arrived in China that Wenzhou-Hua is the most difficult of Chinese dialects. My first encounter with it was walking home late one night. I overheard some guys who’d had a drink or two. I thought to myself: “Have I entered a Russian area? What are they speaking?” The speech patterns often bear little resemblance to Mandarin and the sounds “du” and “gu” are repeated, often only subtly differentiated. However, resist it as you might, you’ll pick up a few bits and pieces, such as “vagaynang”, which is “why guo ren”, or “foreigner”, which they have no hesitation to say to your face.
Pro: Tourist Attractions
There is so much to do in Wenzhou. Starting with the Oujiang River: Walk towards Qidu Island and you can enjoy the promenade. The residential area becomes expensive, and with it comes some higher-end restaurants. Turn back upriver, and the next island is Jiangxin Island. This pretty island offers delightful grassed areas to picnic on and is home to an exemplary Buddhist temple, as well as the beautifully-maintained ex-British Consulate building.
Jiushan Park boasts a stunning Pagoda, and Jingshan (Gold Mountain) Park will take you up the mountains for some wonderful sights. There are a number of other mountain spots. The whole of Zhejiang province is stunning. However, my favourite was the west of the city in Wencheng County. Yuelao Mountain had it all: stunning views, delightful trails, and the aforementioned cooler weather, thanks to its elevation.
If you’re wanting to experience the sea more, then venture east towards Dongtoa. The island chain is home to some 100,000-plus people, and it’s the main island where a lot of city folk like to pick up a second home or escape for a break.
Con: Personal Space
This is a cultural thing. In the UK, we guard our personal space. In fact, of all European countries, the British are possibly the most “standoffish”. In Wenzhou, people stand up close to you and walk in front of you, and this same relationship with personal space extends to the roads. There’s a feeling of “just in time” avoidance of accidents, rather than the general maintenance of distance n the UK.
Pro: Hospitality
Many countries are known for their treatment of guests, but being a travelled person, I’ve not experienced hospitality like Wenzhou hospitality. People go out of their way to ensure you feel welcome, and drinks and food will always be offered. You won’t physically be able to pay for a meal unless you learn the tricks the locals employ. Assuming you lose the first round of “let me get this”, then it’s sure that it will take you some time until you pick up on the “nipping to the toilet trick”, or the “I’m just going outside to take this call rouse”.